Here's how I measure hubs.

You need a set of parallel ends for this to work properly.  I use the ends of my Park TS-3 stand.

1)  Measure the total hub width.  This is referred to as the O.L.D. (Over Locknut Distance).

2) Measure the distance from end to flange.  I normally work with the left flange since I can brace the rest of the calipers against the stand for accuracy.  This picture is for demonstration purposes.

3) Measure the width of the flange.  I prefer to so this at a spoke hole.  Be sure to angle the calipers so they are parallel to the flange.  Some flanges angle towards the rim.

4) With those measurements, calculate.  Subtract end to flange measurement from half the O.L.D.  Also subtract half the flange width to this number.  The result is an accurate center of hub to center of flange measurement.

5) For the P.C.D. (Pitch Circle Diameter), I have another caliper that has what are called centering gauges on them.  I had to grind the sides of my centering gauges to clear the cassette carrier.  Remember that PCD is not to be confused with the overall diameter of the flange.  You need to measure the diameter of the circle created by the spoke holes in the flange.

6) Last, you need to measure the diameter of the spoke holes.  This is easily done with a standard set of calipers so I didn't include a pic.

With these measurements you can accurately enter them into any spoke calculator.  I recommend the spocalc.exe by Damon Rinard.  It's online, can be downloaded, and free.

My Endpoint Coffeegrinder.

Fellas get ready for this.  Endpoint is a new brand.

http://rideendpoint.com/

This is the Coffeegrinder.

I got wind of this project early and received a first production run frameset.  Frames are made here in the goodoleUSofA.  Basically it's a road bike with disc brakes, but the frame deserves a better explanation than that.  This is a bike that rides as spirited and any of my race bikes.  The biggest difference is that it can clear much bigger tires and also leave room to cover them with fenders.  Until now, I had to decide between the two.  The disc brakes sealed the deal for me.  No more rain rides grinding away my rims and leaving a black mess all over the bike (and my hands).  This is the bike I will reach for 80% of the time.  I just does everything so well. 

I went with Ultegra Di2 hydraulic.  I can't begin to say how excellent this group is.  It took me one evening to learn how to run the hose, add fluid, and bleed.  This is not something to be scared of.  Now that I did it once, I can set up the brakes almost as fast as a cable brake setup.  Bonus is no cables to gunk up and replace.  Same can be said about the shifting.  The setup was far easier than cable.  The adjustment will also stay put.  Initially, I wanted to route the wiring internally.  When that proved to be more hassle than it was worth, I sighed and ordered up the external setup.  Now I'm convinced that it was the right choice.  Everything I need to do if there's a problem can be accessed out on the road.  I keep and extra wire with me in case something should happen.

A lot of riding I do is in the dark so lights are a must.  I've also had enough close calls to leave them on all the time.  Having a very visible blinky all the times (front and rear) is a good idea.  Anything that can catch the eye of a driver sooner is good in my book.  These lights are super (Light and Motion).  Besides the usual power settings, each light has a pulse effect.  They don't have that immediate on/off effect that can be harsh to people's eyes in lower lighting.  They gradually pulse on and off.  No need to piss off the very people I'm asking not to kill me.  Finally, both lights have side facing ambers for better visibility.

The wheels.  It took a few paragraphs, but here goes.  The Shimano CX-75 seemed like no brainers.  The price is right and Shimano is known to make a good hub or two.  The quality is Ultegra level featuring a steel freehub body to last.  Center lock was a must to run Shimano's Ice Tech.  I'm a Campagnolo guy, but Shimano owns this segment right now.  They have the history of working technology to make everything just right.  The rims are Stan's Iron Cross.  They can handle about 60psi and that's all I plan on putting in the tires.  At that pressure, the Hutchinson Secteurs (tubeless) ride perfectly.  Handling felt confident and I didn't feel like I lost anything in the rolling resistance department.  If I did, it's worth it.  After this winter, the roads are littered with debris and nasty potholes.  This setup is exactly what I need.

I haven't been this excited about a bike in 10 years.  Sure there have been great updates to the modern road bike, but nothing like this.  This bike smashed through all of the limitations I've dealt with over the years and gives me a bike I can take out all the time.  Best part is that I don't feel anything is lost in the effort to make a bike good a lots of things.  It's still and excellent handling road bike that feels light and nimble.  Thanks Braden!!!